How to Mat a Picture for Framing | Cut and Fit Like a Pro

Matted framing uses a mat board with a cut opening to frame an image, protecting it from glass contact while adding a polished border.

Learning how to mat a picture for framing changes the look of any photo, print, or certificate. The mat is the cardboard-like border that sits between the artwork and the glass, and it serves two jobs: it keeps the glass from touching the image, and it draws the eye toward the piece.

Here is the full workflow in order: measure the artwork, decide the border width, cut the mat opening, hinge the art to a backing board, and assemble everything into the frame. Getting the opening size right is the step that trips up most people, so pay attention to that one.

What Size Should the Mat Opening Be?

The mat opening must be slightly smaller than the artwork itself. Cutting it to the exact size of the image is the most common mistake — the edges of the print fall into the opening or peek out from behind the mat, and the whole piece looks off. The rule is to overlap the artwork by at least 1/8 inch on all sides; many framers use a 1/4-inch overlap to be safe.

Border width is the second decision. For family photos and certificates, a border of 2 to 2.5 inches on all sides reads as classic and balanced. A narrower border of 1 to 1.5 inches gives a sleeker, more modern gallery feel. Larger artwork can handle a wider border; a small 5-by-7 photo in a 3-inch mat can look overwhelmed.

How Do You Cut a Mat Opening?

Cut the mat face-down so the beveled edge angles inward, which keeps the cut line clean when the mat is flipped over. Use a sharp mat cutter or utility knife with a fresh blade, and cut against a straightedge ruler. One smooth, steady pass beats two shaky ones — a dull blade tears the board’s surface instead of slicing it.

The corners are where cuts go wrong. Overcutting past the corner leaves a nick in the border; undercutting leaves a tiny gap. Aim each cut to stop precisely at the corner point, and rotate the board for each side rather than dragging the blade across the intersection. If you do slip, a corner defect is often hidden once the frame is assembled, but a clean corner is worth the slower pace. Always keep your free hand clear of the blade path — mat cutters are sharp, and controlled, deliberate strokes are the safe way to cut.

How to Attach the Artwork to the Backing

Hinge the artwork to the backing board rather than taping it to the mat itself. Attaching the print to the mat is a common mistake because the artwork can buckle or sag against the mat over time. Use acid-free linen tape or photo corners to hinge the top edge of the artwork to the backing board. This allows the paper to expand and contract naturally with humidity changes without wrinkling.

Centering matters more than people expect. The finished piece looks off-balance if the artwork sits even slightly askew. A subtle framer’s trick: position the mat opening slightly higher than true center so the bottom border is a touch wider than the top. Our eyes tolerate a heavier bottom border, and the piece feels more grounded. For a true centered look, measure equal margins all around, but the slight high-placement is the classic approach.

Before sealing the frame, blow or brush off any dust from the glass, the mat, and the artwork. A sealed frame traps dust forever, so the cleaning step you skip is the speck you stare at for years. Then place the mat over the hinged artwork, add the glass if it isn’t already in the frame, and secure the backing.

When you’re ready to buy a frame with a mat already made, our rundown of the best 11×14 picture frames with mats covers the top options for this exact setup.

Materials That Protect Your Artwork

| Material | Why It Matters | What to Use |
|—|—|—|
| Mat board | Non-acid-free board yellow and deteriorates the artwork over time | Acid-free mat board, labeled “conservation” or “museum grade” for heirlooms |
| Hinge tape | Regular tape stains and dries out | Acid-free linen tape or archival photo corners |
| Backing board | Needs to be rigid and archival | Acid-free foam core or archival corrugated board |
| Glass | Standard glass can cause glare and UV damage | UV-protective glass for valuable or sunlit pieces |

The acid-free rule applies to every material touching the art. Cheap craft-store mat board often contains acids that migrate into the paper and cause yellowing within a few years. If the piece is a family heirloom or a signed certificate, pay the extra dollar for conservation-grade board. For everyday photos you swap out seasonally, standard acid-free board is fine.

One more consideration: matting adds thickness, so make sure your frame’s rabbet — the recessed lip that holds the contents — is deep enough for the glass, mat, artwork, and backing combined. Most standard frames handle a single mat without issue, but double-matting or thick museum board can push the backing out.

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