How to Plant Bare Root Raspberries | Spring Planting Steps

Plant bare-root raspberries in early spring as soon as the soil is workable, spreading roots in a shallow trench and covering them with 1 to 2 inches of soil.

Getting bare-root raspberry canes into the ground at the right moment is the difference between a thriving patch and a disappointing one. These dormant plants arrive with exposed roots that dry out fast, so timing and handling matter more than almost anything else you do. The goal is simple: get them in the ground while they’re still dormant, keep the roots moist, and give the canes a hard prune right after planting.

When To Plant Bare-Root Raspberries

Plant as early as the soil can be worked in spring — typically as soon as the ground thaws and drains enough to dig without it sticking to your shovel. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends planting “as soon as you can work the soil in spring.”

If your plants arrive before the ground is ready, keep the roots moist and wrapped, or heel them in temporarily with moist soil or sawdust in a shallow trench. This buys you a few days without risking the roots drying out. The critical rule is that roots must never sit exposed to air between unpacking and planting.

Preparing The Site And Soil

Raspberries need a well-drained site with full sun and little to no weeds. Before planting, till or loosen the planting row so the soil is workable, but preserve aisle ground cover where possible to reduce erosion. A weed-free planting area gives young canes a strong start without competition for water and nutrients.

About one to two hours before planting, soak the roots in water. Multiple sources recommend this pre-soak, but keep it short — one extension source warns not to exceed 6 hours, as longer soaking can deprive roots of oxygen and increase rot risk. While you work, keep unplanted roots covered with a damp burlap sack or towel.

Planting Steps: Depth, Spacing, And Technique

Dig a shallow trench or hole wide enough to spread the roots horizontally without bending or crowding them. Place the cane so the point where roots join the cane sits about 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Burying the crown too deeply is a common mistake that can suffocate the plant.

• Spread roots laterally in the trench, making sure none are bunched or folded back on themselves.
• Cover with soil — several inches is enough; avoid piling on excessive soil.
• Water thoroughly immediately after planting to settle the soil around the roots.
• Prune the canes back to about 2 inches above ground (up to 6 inches if canes arrived longer). This forces energy into root establishment rather than top growth.
• Apply mulch after planting to reduce water pooling and winter injury.

Spacing depends on your system, but common in-row spacing is 18 to 24 inches apart, with rows 6 to 10 feet apart depending on variety. A thicker hedgerow system can use tighter spacing; a hill system needs more room. When choosing varieties, a roundup of top-rated bare-root raspberry varieties can help you pick productive cultivars suited to your region.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Most failed raspberry plantings trace back to a handful of preventable errors. Roots that dry out between unpacking and planting will not recover, no matter how carefully you plant afterward. Overly deep planting buries the crown and invites rot. Leaving roots exposed while backfilling lets them dry out in minutes. Soaking roots longer than 6 hours risks oxygen deprivation.

Planting into a weedy or poorly drained site sets the patch up for failure — weeds compete with young canes, and standing water rots roots. Wear gloves when handling thorned varieties, as the spined canes can cause injury.

For more detail on planting systems and ongoing care, the Oregon State University guide to growing raspberries in the home garden covers everything from soil prep through harvest.