A Buyer’s Guide to Vintage 1950s High Heels: Sizing, Fit, and What to Look For

Vintage 1950s high heels fit by measured insole length, ball width, and instep height — not by the marked size, which varied between makers and often runs narrow.

A 1950s pump can look perfect in the photos and still pinch across the ball, because the number stamped inside means far less than the shoe’s real interior dimensions. Most heels from the decade measured roughly 2 to 3 inches — kitten to mid-height — and sizing guides from Vintage Vixen note that old widths ran from AAAAA up to D, with B counting as regular. The working approach is simple: get three numbers off the shoe, compare them to a pair you already love at the same heel height, and buy on the measurements rather than the label.

Why Vintage Sizing Labels Can’t Be Trusted

Marked sizes from the 1950s were inconsistent between manufacturers, so the same number fits differently brand to brand — and the label says nothing about width or instep. Fit guides from Vintage Vixen and Remix Vintage Shoes both push buyers toward actual measurements for this reason.

Two more variables widen the gap. Vintage shoes are frequently narrower at the ball and instep than modern pairs, and decades of wear, stretching, and storage can shift a shoe’s interior shape. A 7 from one maker may fit like a 6.5 from another, and a marked regular width may still feel tight if your foot is on the wider side.

The Three Measurements That Decide Fit

Insole length, ball width, and instep height predict fit far better than any size number, so ask the seller for all three before you commit.

• Insole length: toe to heel inside the shoe — the true ceiling on foot length.
• Ball width: across the widest part of the foot, where vintage shoes most often run narrow.
• Instep height: over the top of the foot; critical on any style you can’t adjust.

Fixed buckles and slingbacks deserve extra attention here. Unlike a slip-on pump, those styles offer little give, so an instep that’s even slightly too high turns a beautiful pair into a shoe you’ll never wear.

One warning from the source guides: never compare a seller’s shoe measurements to your bare foot. Measure against a shoe.

Measuring Against a Shoe You Already Own

The most reliable comparison is a pair of your own comfortable shoes with the same heel height, measured the same way and checked against the seller’s numbers.

Heel height changes how the foot sits inside the shoe, so a flat you love tells you little about a 3-inch pump. Match heights first, then compare all three dimensions. If the seller’s insole is shorter than your reference shoe by more than a hair, size up or walk away.

What To Look For in the Listing

Genuine leather was the common material in 1940s and 1950s heels, and the era’s silhouette was overwhelmingly the pump or the slingback. Both age well when cared for, but leather that’s dried out, cracked, or stiff at the ball is a hard pass regardless of price.

Ask for the measurements above, plus clear photos of the sole, the inner lining, and any buckle or strap. If a seller won’t provide numbers, treat the marked size as decoration. Buyers who want a shortcut past the trial and error can browse a curated set of tested picks — our roundup of recommended vintage 1950s high heels covers pairs already checked against these fit criteria.

It’s also worth knowing which styles will frustrate you. A slingback with a fixed buckle has no adjustment, so it either fits the instep or it doesn’t. A pump with a soft leather upper will give slightly over time — but only slightly, and never in length.