Artificial turf edging goes in before the sub-base: set a metal, timber, or concrete border level with the finished grass, anchor it with spikes or stakes, then compact aggregate and trim turf against it.
One edging board set 20 mm too high turns a clean lawn into a trip hazard, and a perimeter left loose lets the whole surface creep within a season. Artificial turf edging is the border that stops both: it holds the sub-base in place, gives the turf a fixed line to be cut and nailed against, and keeps the edge from rippling underfoot.
The work itself is three moves — prep the trench, anchor the border, then build the base against it. Everything below follows that order, with the numbers that decide whether the edge holds.
What Edging Material Should You Use?
Metal, treated timber, concrete, and brick all work as artificial grass edging; purpose-made plastic and rubber systems do too, and each has a clear best case. The material matters less than the fit — the border must sit level and finish no higher than the turf pile.
Metal strips (steel or aluminium) suit curves and tight radiuses because they bend to shape. Treated timber is the budget route and doubles as a fixing surface: the Artificial Grass knowledge hub notes turf can be screwed or stapled into timber borders, and Selco’s installation guide lists treated battens and U-pins as perimeter-retention methods. Concrete and brick are the permanent choice for straight runs and driveways, though they can’t be re-shaped once set.
Two rules apply to every material. Edging that projects above the pile is a trip hazard and catches mower blades and feet.
How Do You Prepare the Ground for the Edging?
Strip the old lawn and soil first, then dig the perimeter trench before any aggregate goes down. Edging installed after the sub-base is edging installed badly.
- Cut the existing turf with a sharp spade or a turf cutter and lift it clear.
- Plan roll direction before you dig — artificial grass usually ships in 2 m or 4 m widths, and standard rolls run 4 × 25 m, so consistent direction cuts waste.
- Set the edging into the trench, check it with a spirit level along its whole run, and confirm the top sits flush with the intended grass height.
Anchor as you go. Purpose-made systems come with their own spikes; timber borders take stakes driven through pre-drilled holes. A border that rocks under a boot is not anchored yet.
How Do You Build the Base and Lay the Turf Against It?
Compact the aggregate against the fixed border, lay weed membrane, then roll and trim the turf to the edging line. The order matters because the border is what the base is compacted against.
Add your aggregate after the edging is set, level it to the required falls, wet it, and compact it with a plate compactor or roller. Sub-base depth depends on pile height and soil drainage — sandy ground needs less than heavy clay.
Roll out the weed membrane over the compacted base, then lay the turf with at least a 50 mm overlap at outside edges and between sections. Let it acclimatise for at least 2–3 hours, preferably overnight, before you cut anything.
To trim, fold the turf back and cut from the underside with a sharp retractable knife, slicing between tufts rather than through visible blades. Nail the perimeter at roughly 0.75 m intervals, then bond seams with joining tape shiny side down, adhesive along the join, and firm foot pressure. Finish by brushing kiln-dried sand into the perimeter.
Which Edging Mistakes Cause the Most Failures?
Edging set too high and turf laid without a proper sub-base cause nearly every failure. Both show up fast: a lifted border catches feet and mower decks, and a loose perimeter lets the surface shift and ripple.
| Mistake | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Edging above turf pile | Trip hazard; mower and foot snags |
| Edging set out of level | Visible dip or hump along the lawn edge |
| Turf laid on bare ground | Edge creep, ripples, poor drainage |
| Turf cut through blades, not between tufts | Ragged perimeter and weak seams |
| No weed membrane under base | Weeds push through within weeks |
If you’re replacing an aging plastic strip or want a border that survives freeze-thaw, our roundup of tested artificial turf edging kits compares the metal, timber, and rubber options worth the spend.
Pennate Group’s design guidance makes the underlying point plainly: synthetic turf laid without edging and a prepared sub-base moves at the edges and performs poorly over time. The Artificial Grass laying guide walks through the full sequence from excavation to infill if you want the deep version.
Work through the three stages in order — trench, anchor, base — and check the edging level before a single bag of aggregate goes down. That check takes five minutes and saves the whole build.
FAQs
Does artificial grass need edging at all?
Yes, in almost every case. Without a fixed border, the sub-base migrates outward and the turf edge lifts and ripples. Edging gives the surface a retained perimeter and a straight line for cutting and nailing.
How deep should the edging sit below the turf?
Setting it higher creates a trip hazard; setting it much lower exposes a soil lip along the lawn.
Can you add edging after the turf is already laid?
It’s possible but far harder. You’d have to lift the turf and base along the perimeter, re-excavate, and reset the border before relaying. Installing edging first costs a fraction of the effort.
References & Sources
- Artificial Grass. “How to Lay Artificial Grass” Installation sequence, edge depth, nailing intervals, and trimming method.
- Selco Builders Warehouse. “Artificial Grass Installation Guide” Perimeter retention using treated battens and U-pins.
- Pennate Group. “Designing With Synthetic Turf” Consequences of laying turf without edging or a prepared sub-base.