How to Make Fishing Lures for Trout | DIY Builds That Catch Fish

Trout are selective eaters, but they can’t resist a lure that mimics their natural forage. Making your own lures lets you control every variable—blade color, weight, hook size, and action—while spending pennies instead of dollars per lure. The three proven builds below use materials you can find around the house or pick up for under $5 total. Each one targets a different water condition, so you can match the hatch without visiting a tackle shop.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need

Most of these supplies are generic hardware or craft items. The specific gear you need depends on which lure type you build, but the tool list stays the same across all three projects.

You can source everything from Dollar Tree, Dollar General, Hobby Lobby, or online from LurePartsOnline. Expect to spend under $5 for a dozen lures worth of materials—wire, blades, and clevises typically run $2–$5 per pack if you don’t already have them lying around.

How to Build a Trout Spinner (The Most Effective DIY Lure)

The classic inline spinner is the single most versatile trout lure you can make at home. It works in moving water and still lakes, and the blade flash triggers strikes even when trout are finicky.

Step 1: Form the front loop. Grab the wire with your pliers, loop it over the rounded arm of the pliers (flat arm underneath), then bend the tag end fully around the main wire. Wrap the tag twice around the main wire to secure the loop.

Step 2: Size the lure. This extra length accounts for both loops and the wraps that secure them.

Step 3: Add components in order. Slide a bead onto the wire first, then the clevis (the U-shaped clip that holds the blade), then the blade itself. This is where the most common mistake happens—the blade must face the correct direction so water flow hits its concave side. A blade facing backward won’t spin and the lure will drag uselessly. Add more decorative beads after the blade if desired, but only the bead under the clevis is functionally critical.

Step 4: Secure the back loop. Start by bending the wire at a 45-degree angle, then loop it around the rounded plier arm. Wrap fully, then attach the hook via a split ring (this lets you swap hooks later) or permanently by threading the hook eye into the wrap.

Step 5: Final check. Make sure there is free space for the loops and wraps to move. If a non-critical bead jams against the wraps, crush it with pliers to loosen the assembly. When finished, the blade should spin freely with a light pull through water—you’ll feel the vibration through the line on the first cast.

If you’d rather skip the build and see which store-bought models top our test list, check out our roundup of the best artificial lures for trout that consistently land big fish.

Making a Copper Penny Spoon Lure

The penny spoon is a classic budget build that produces a wobbling, fluttering action trout find irresistible. It takes about 20 minutes and costs essentially nothing.

Step 1: Shape the penny. Place the copper penny on a piece of scrap wood and pound it with the rounded face of a small hammer. Work from the center outward until the coin forms a concave shape on one side and convex on the other—it should look like a miniature spoon.

Step 2: Drill the hole. Drill a small hole near one edge of the shaped penny. You can also use a hammer and nail to punch through, then sand the rough edges smooth so the penny spins freely against the wire without snagging.

Step 3: Prepare the wire (paperclip). Straighten a medium paperclip with your fingers, then use needle-nose pliers to make a small hook at one end. Attach the treble hook to this hook and crimp the wire closed.

Step 4: String the components. Slide beads onto the wire in your preferred order, then thread the penny with the concave side facing down (this creates the wobble). Clip the excess wire, leaving about 3/4 inch above the penny, and form a top loop for attaching your fishing line.

Step 5: Test the action. Pull the assembled lure through a bucket of water or a slow stream. If the penny doesn’t spin freely, sand the hole edges more or add a small split shot sinker just above the lure to weigh it down in slower water.

Building a Foam and Feather Floating Rig

This surface and shallow-water lure imitates insects and small baitfish. It works best in clear, calm water where trout feed on the surface film.

Step 1: Cut the foam body. Carve a fish or insect shape from closed-cell craft foam using scissors or a hobby knife.

Step 2: Add feathers. Wrap a small feather (or feather segment) around the foam body near the tail, securing it with thread wraps. The feather creates motion in the water and mimics fins or legs.

Step 3: Attach the hook. Thread a single or treble hook through the foam body so the point exits near the back. Secure with thread and a drop of epoxy.

Step 4: Optional diving bill. Cut a small triangular bill from a plastic orange juice bottle and epoxy it to the front underside of the foam body. This makes the lure dive and wobble on retrieve, adding versatility.

Foam rigs last longer than soft plastic lures and won’t waterlog if you seal the epoxy well. They’re especially effective for wild trout that see a lot of artificial pressure.

Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Even experienced DIY builders hit these roadblocks. Knowing them in advance saves materials and frustration.

• Blade faces wrong direction. The concave side must face forward into the water flow. A backward blade sits flat and spins weakly.
• Over-tightening loops and wraps. Packing wraps too tightly jams the assembly and prevents components from moving. Leave a small gap; you can crush a non-critical bead with pliers to add space if needed.
• Regular hooks instead of treble hooks. Single hooks work but treble hooks significantly improve hookup rates because trout often strike short or from the side.
• Penny fails to spin. Rough edges from the drilled hole catch on the wire. Sand the hole until glass-smooth and make sure the penny isn’t bent unevenly during the hammering step.
• Prioritizing neatness over function. A lure with clean, tight wraps that doesn’t spin catches nothing. Give components room to move—function trumps appearance every time.

Safety and Legal Considerations

Use hammers and drills carefully, and sand sharp edges on the penny hole to avoid cutting yourself during assembly. Check local fishing regulations before using homemade lures—some regions restrict the use of certain hook types or non-standard materials. Copper pennies will eventually corrode in freshwater, so epoxy-sealed foam and feather rigs last longer for regular use.

Final Build Checklist

Before you head to the water, run through this quick check on each lure you assemble:

• Blade or spoon spins freely with a light tug through water.
• Hook is securely attached (split ring or wrapped wire) and sharp.
• Wire loops have enough space to flex without jamming.
• Penny or foam body stays centered on the wire and doesn’t slide off angle.
• No rough edges that could cut your fishing line during a cast or retrieve.

One more thing: the spinners you just built work great, but if you’re covering new water or want a proven edge, our tested picks for artificial lures include models that regularly top tournament catch rates.