How to Make a Barber Cape? | Sew Your Own Professional Cape

To make a barber cape, cut a waterproof PVC vinyl rectangle (50 by 80 inches), create a 5-inch neck opening, add a 26-inch slit from the neck to one edge, round the corners, and finish with bias binding and a hook-and-loop fastener.

Making your own barber cape is a practical weekend project that saves money and lets you customize the fit and fabric. With standard PVC vinyl, a few sewing tools, and about two hours, you can build a professional-grade cape that repels hair clippings and outlasts most budget store options. The steps break down into cutting, finishing, and fastening — each with a few critical measurements to get right.

For readers ready to buy rather than sew, see our product roundup of the best barber capes on the market for tested options.

What You Need: Materials and Tools

PVC vinyl fabric is the standard choice because it sheds hair and wipes clean. Look for a 50-by-80-inch sheet (or 60 by 72 inches for a taller option). For a non-waterproof fabric cape, use cotton or polyester-blend fabric with bias tape finishes.

Supplies include 2 yards of 1-inch double-fold bias binding, a 2.5-inch hook-and-loop fastener (Velcro), sewing thread that matches the vinyl, sharp fabric scissors, a ruler or measuring tape, a plate or circular guide for the neck hole, and a sewing machine capable of a straight stitch and a zigzag or serger stitch for edges.

Step-by-Step: Cutting and Sewing the Cape

1. Prepare and Cut the Fabric

Spread the PVC vinyl flat on a large table or clean floor. Cut a rectangle to your chosen dimensions: 50 inches wide by 80 inches long is standard for waterproof capes. Round the bottom corners using a dinner plate as a guide — this prevents the corners from catching on chair arms or clients. Mark a 26-inch slit starting from the center of one short edge (50-inch side), cutting straight toward the middle of the fabric. At the top of this slit, cut a 5-inch-diameter circle for the neck opening. A neck hole smaller than 5 inches may feel tight; any larger allows clippings to slip through.

2. Finish All Edges

Bind every raw edge with the 1-inch double-fold bias binding. Start with the outer perimeter of the cape, then bind the 26-inch slit edge, and finally bind the neck hole. On PVC vinyl, skip this step at your own risk — unfinished edges fray quickly and collect hair. Use a zigzag or serger stitch on fabric capes; a straight stitch works on vinyl. The hem depth should be about 0.4 inches (1 cm), folded twice for a clean finish.

3. Attach the Fastener

Sew one piece of the 2.5-inch hook-and-loop fastener to the right side of the slit edge, and the other piece to the wrong side of the opposite slit edge. This arrangement lets the cape wrap around the neck and close securely. A common mistake is sewing both pieces on the same fabric side — the cape will not close. Use a straight stitch for a strong hold; test the placement by wrapping the cape around a mannequin or yourself before final sewing.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Cutting the slit too short: A 26-inch slit allows the cape to wrap fully around the client. Shorter slits gap at the neck and let hair through.
• Neck hole too small or large: Stick to 5 inches. Too small restricts movement; too large lets clippings fall inside the cape.
• Fastener on the same side: The hook piece goes on the right side of one slit edge; the loop piece goes on the wrong side of the other edge. Sewing both on the same surface prevents closure.
• Skipping edge finishing: PVC vinyl frays if edges are left raw. Bias binding is the standard solution. For fabric capes, serge or zigzag all raw edges before hemming.

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