How to Make an Automatic Chicken Feeder | Gravity-Fed DIY Plans

A homemade automatic chicken feeder works by letting gravity pull feed down into ports as birds eat, and you can build one from a bucket, PVC pipe, or garbage can for under $25.

Building your own automatic chicken feeder saves money and keeps feed dry and rodent-free while you’re away for days at a time. The basic principle behind every design is simple: feed fills from the top, gravity pushes it down, and chickens eat from ports at the bottom without ever standing in their food. Whether you want a 10-minute bucket build or a weekend PVC project, the plans below cover the options that actually work.

What Is an Automatic Chicken Feeder?

An automatic chicken feeder is a gravity-fed hopper that dispenses feed gradually as birds eat. Instead of a open tray that invites waste, rodents, and spoilage, a hopper-style feeder stores several days’ worth of feed in a sealed container and releases it only when chickens lower the level in the eating ports.

The simplest versions use a 5-gallon bucket, a 32-gallon trash can, or a plastic tote with cut openings or PVC elbow fittings. More advanced builds add an Arduino board and motor to dispense feed on a schedule, but most backyard keepers never need that complexity. A gravity feeder handles the job with zero electricity.

Bucket Feeder: The $6–$25 Option

A 5-gallon bucket feeder is the fastest and cheapest automatic chicken feeder you can build. It requires a bucket with a lid, a 3-inch hole saw bit, and some basic hardware.

Here’s the step-by-step:

1. Mark a line 3 inches up from the bottom of the bucket — this is where the feed ports will sit.
2. Drill a 3-inch hole using the hole saw bit at your mark.
3. Install the gaskets and screw-on caps that come with a bucket-feeder kit around the hole.
4. Elevate the bucket 6 to 10 inches off the ground — use cinder blocks, a stand, or a DIY wooden frame. This height lets chickens reach the ports comfortably without scratching feed onto the ground.
5. Fill from the top and snap the lid on. Gravity feeds the port as birds eat.

One popular budget build lists a 2.5-gallon bucket at $3 from a hardware store, a chip-and-relish dish from Dollar Tree at $1, and an optional lid at $0.99 — about $5 total. A $25 build typically adds a nicer bucket, a purpose-made hole-saw kit with gaskets, and a sturdy stand. Most plans agree on one detail: keep the opening at least 3 inches off the bucket’s bottom so the last bit of feed doesn’t go stale.

PVC and Trash-Can Feeders for Larger Flocks

For bigger flocks, a 32-gallon garbage can or PVC pipe feeder holds far more feed and needs less refilling. These builds take a bit more time but pay off in capacity.

Trash-can feeder: One reliable design uses a 32-gallon garbage can with four 4-inch 90-degree plumbing elbows as ports. This build can hold over 100 pounds of feed. The process: place a 2×4 under each elbow to set height, trace the opening, drill the hole, then insert the elbows from the inside out, leaving about 1.5 inches protruding outside. Seal around every hole with 100% silicone caulking and add small pinholes in the bottom for drainage so moisture never sits in the feed.

PVC pipe feeder: A no-spill design uses 3-inch PVC pipe with a Y connector and an end cap. One plan specifies cutting the pipe into 20-inch, 6-inch, and 3-inch sections. Don’t glue the dry-fit assembly if you want to adjust port height later. Place the cap over the opening at night to make the feeder weather- and critter-proof.

One important note for elbow-style feeders: the port must sit high enough that grain can slide under the elbow’s curve. If the opening is too low, feed simply won’t flow.

How Much Space Does Each Chicken Need?

Demand Feeders and Electronic Options

For keepers who want store-bought reliability, the PECk-O-MATIC Demand Feeder uses a trigger-rod and catch-dish mechanism that releases feed only when a bird steps on the dish. This option works with any round pail and costs more than DIY, but the feed-waste reduction is excellent.

On the electronics side, an Instructables Arduino chicken feeder build uses a Genuino Uno, a small motor, a T-shaped PVC pipe, a 3D-printed auger screw, and an LCD screen to dispense feed on a timer. This is a hobby-electronics project — you’ll need a 12V battery or wall adapter and basic wiring skills. Most backyard keepers find a gravity feeder simpler and just as effective.

If you’d rather skip the build entirely, our tested roundup of the best automatic hen feeders covers commercial options that are ready to use out of the box.

Feeder Maintenance That Prevents Problems

Three mistakes cause most DIY feeder failures. First, setting the feed opening too low blocks comfortable access — keep ports 6 to 10 inches off the ground. Second, skipping the seal lets rain ruin feed; always caulk around holes with 100% silicone and add drainage pinholes. Third, forgetting the feed-type match on demand feeders — adjust the regulator disk to match your feed’s flow rate.

If you use PVC cement on a PVC build, let it cure for a full 24 hours, or until it no longer smells, before adding feed. For all gravity designs, check the feeder every few days during the first week to confirm feed is flowing and nothing is bridging inside the hopper.