How to Frame Artwork | Protect, Mount & Hang

Framing artwork properly means using acid-free, reversible materials and keeping the art from touching the glazing.

Framing artwork protects it and changes how it reads on the wall. The right approach depends on whether you’re framing a work on paper or a canvas painting. Get the basics right and you’ll avoid the common mistakes that damage art over time.

What You Need To Frame Works On Paper

Works on paper, photographs, prints, and drawings need a frame with glazing, a mat or spacers, a backing board, and archival mounting. The mat isn’t just decorative — it keeps the paper from touching the glass.

Direct contact with glazing causes condensation, mold, and sticking. So the mat or spacer creates a physical gap that protects the work.

• Acid-free matboard — acidic materials yellow and weaken paper over time through acid migration.
• Reversible mounting — hold the art with archival hinges or corner pockets, never glue or permanent tape.
• UV-reducing glazing — helps slow fading from light exposure.
• Backing board and dust seal — keeps out insects, dust, and pollutants.

If you’re shopping for a ready-made frame, you’ll want one that’s deep enough for a mat plus your artwork and glazing. For a wide selection of styles that suit different mediums, see our roundup of artistic picture frames worth buying.

How Framing Canvas Paintings Differs

Canvas paintings typically skip the mat entirely. The stretcher bars give the canvas its own depth, so the frame just needs to fit around them and support the weight.

The two main options are a traditional frame sized for the canvas depth, or a floater frame. A floater frame creates a visible gap around the edges — the canvas sits in the frame’s rebate rather than behind a mat, which gives the piece a modern gallery look.

Before you pick a frame, measure the artwork’s thickness. A frame that’s too shallow for a stretched canvas is one of the most common mistakes.

The Framing Sequence And Sizing Rules

Once you have your frame and materials, the order of operations is simple: measure, mount, glaze, secure, then hang.

1. Measure the artwork first, then choose a frame or mat system that leaves a deliberate border.
2. Mount the art to the back of the mat with low-adhesive archival tape, keeping it square and free of wrinkles.
3. Insert glazing if appropriate for the medium, then place the art and backing into the frame.
4. Secure the backing, and add a dust cover for works on paper.
5. Add hanging hardware suited to the frame’s weight and size.

Mat width matters more than most people think. Smaller artworks generally benefit from a larger mat, while very large-scale pieces may not need one at all.

For hanging, screw eyes and wire work well for frames 8″x10″ or larger; smaller frames can use sawtooth hangers. When stacking two framed pieces vertically, one guide recommends the midpoint between them sit at 58″–60″ from the floor, with about 2 inches between frame edges.

Common US stock frame sizes include 8 x 10, 9 x 12, 11 x 14, 12 x 16, 16 x 20, 18 x 24, and 24 x 36 inches — a useful shortcut if you want a ready-made frame rather than a custom order.

Framing Mistakes That Damage Artwork

Most framing damage comes from a few avoidable errors. Knowing them helps you frame with confidence.

• Letting art touch glass or acrylic — causes condensation, mold, and sticking.
• Using acidic materials — causes yellowing and weakening over time.
• Gluing or permanently taping artwork — makes safe removal impossible later.
• Choosing a frame too shallow for canvas — the stretcher bars won’t fit.
• Skipping a dust cover — invites insects and pollutants behind the frame.
• Mis-centering the art in the mat — makes borders look uneven.

Also keep framed art out of direct sunlight. Light damage is a major cause of fading and discoloration, so UV-reducing glazing helps but doesn’t eliminate the risk. The Canadian Conservation Institute’s guidance on framing paintings offers detailed clearance and dimension advice for both panel paintings and stretchered works.

Large sheets of glass are also a safety concern — handle them carefully and consider acrylic for big pieces, which is lighter and less hazardous.