How to Use a Cable Stripper? | Match The Tool To The Cable

A cable stripper scores or cuts a cable’s jacket so you can remove it cleanly, and the right method depends on matching the tool to the cable type.

Whether you’re terminating Ethernet, coaxial, or electrical wire, the tool only works well when the cable sits in the correct jaw or guide with the blade depth set for the jacket thickness. The steps below cover the four main tool types, plus the safety checks that matter before any cut. If you are still choosing between tools, our tested roundup of the best cable strippers for home and pro use covers the models worth owning.

Manual Wire Strippers: The Squeeze-And-Pull Method

Manual strippers are the most common tool for electrical wire, and the process is straightforward once the power is off.

1. De-energize the wire. Switch off the breaker and confirm with a voltage tester before touching anything.
2. Match the notch to the gauge. The tool head has marked holes for different wire sizes. Using the wrong one can nick the conductor or refuse to cut.
3. Squeeze to cut. Close the handles firmly so the blade scores the insulation all the way around.
4. Pull the insulation off. Tilt slightly and pull; a proper strip leaves the conductor intact and undamaged.

Inspect the copper after stripping. If you see gouges or broken strands, the notch was too small or the cut too deep.

Rotary Jacket Strippers: For Coaxial And Twisted-Pair Cable

For jacketed cables like RG6 coax, CAT6, or twisted pair, a rotary stripper scores the outer jacket without touching the shielding or conductors underneath.

The key setting is blade depth. Ripley’s instruction sheet for its US01-6001 and US7000 tools specifies.015–.020″ of depth above the concentric wires or metallic shielding, with a blade angle between 3° and 9°. On the Ripley MK01DA rotary cable stripper, you release the lock nut and rotate the adjuster to set depth, then place the tool at the strip point and let the thumb slider press the blade in before revolving the tool around the cable.

Klein Tools’ VDV110-261 uses a slightly different action: depress the plunger, insert the twisted-pair cable until about 1/2″ (13 mm) extends past the tool wall, release the plunger, rotate the tool one or two times, then depress the plunger again and bend the jacket along the score line to crack it off.

The Platinum Tools Cyclops 2 uses directional arrows instead of numbered guides: pull the ring with your middle finger, push the side grips to open, insert the cable, then rotate in the direction of the MIN arrow for thin insulation or MAX for thick. Open the tool and bend the outer insulation off along the cut.

Coaxial And Automatic Strippers: Matching The Guide

RG-style strippers pair the cable to a V-block size rather than an adjustable blade. A typical manual lists 6 = RG6, 8 = RG58, 9 = RG59/62, and D = RG-174 for the HT-332D. Close the jaws, rotate 1–4 clockwise turns, then open and peel away the jacket and dielectric. RS Components documentation calls the matching guides “cam stamped and colour-coded” so the right slot is easy to find.

Automatic or self-adjusting strippers remove the gauge-matching guesswork entirely: insert the wire into the clamp, squeeze the handles, and the tool grips, cuts, and strips in one motion. Many models also include cutting and crimping stations.

Common Mistakes And The Safety Rules That Matter

Most stripping failures trace back to a handful of predictable errors.

• Never strip a live circuit. Always switch off the breaker and test the wire first.
• Set blade depth shallow. The blade should score the jacket, not the shielding or conductor. Test on scrap cable first when working with unfamiliar jacketed wire.
• Use the exact gauge or guide. Wrong-size notches damage conductors or leave ragged cuts.
• Avoid rocking or torquing the tool. A smooth rotation gives consistent cuts; forcing it deforms the wire.
• Finish the cut before pulling. Yanking insulation before the jacket is fully scored tears strips and nicks the core.

FAQs

What does the blade depth setting do on a cable stripper?

The blade depth controls how far the cutting edge penetrates the jacket. Set it too shallow and the jacket won’t score fully; set it too deep and the blade nicks the shielding or conductor underneath. Ripley’s guidance for its rotary tools is.015–.020″ above the metallic shielding, with a blade angle between 3° and 9°.

Can one cable stripper handle both electrical wire and coaxial cable?

Usually not with the same head. Manual wire strippers use gauge-specific notches sized for solid or stranded copper, while coaxial strippers use V-blocks or adjustable depth settings for RG59, RG6, RG58, and similar jackets. A multi-tool or kit with interchangeable heads covers both, but a single fixed-head stripper rarely does.

Why does my stripped wire keep getting nicked?

A nicked conductor almost always means the notch is too small for the wire gauge or the blade depth is set too deep. Check that the wire sits in the correct slot and that the blade only scores the insulation. Squeezing too hard or rocking the tool sideways also cuts into the copper, so keep the tool perpendicular and use a firm, even motion.