Putting on bike pedals requires a clockwise turn on the right side and a counterclockwise turn on the left side, a difference that prevents cross-threading.
For the full breakdown, see our best Bear Claw Pedals guide.
Most pedal damage comes from one simple mistake: turning the left pedal the wrong way. It threads backward, and knowing this before you start saves your crank arm. Here’s the exact order to install pedals cleanly, tighten them safely, and avoid the stuck-pedal disaster later.
Why One Pedal Tightens The “Wrong” Way
Bike pedals use opposing threads so pedaling force tightens them instead of loosening them. The right pedal (drive side) uses a standard right-hand thread, turning clockwise to tighten. The left pedal uses a reverse, left-hand thread, meaning it tightens counterclockwise — the opposite of what instinct says. Pedal thread direction is always opposite between sides by design.
You are not wrong to double-check: this catches nearly everyone. Forcing the wrong side risks stripping the crank or pedal threads, which turns a five-minute job into a trip to the shop.
How To Identify The Left And Right Pedal
Pedals are not interchangeable. If you try to force the wrong pedal onto a crank, you will fight the threads and risk costly damage.
Installation Step-By-Step
The process takes under ten minutes with the bike stable.
- Clean the threads on both the crank arm and the pedal axle. Old grit causes cross-threading.
- Apply grease to the pedal threads. This step is what stops pedals from seizing later.
- Thread the right pedal in by hand — clockwise. Only your fingers touch it until it turns smoothly and seats fully. If it fights you, stop: you are cross-threading. Back it out and try again.
- Tighten the right pedal with the correct tool once it is fully hand-tight.
- Repeat on the left side, threading counterclockwise by hand before tightening.
Which Tool Do You Need?
The tool depends on your pedal’s design. A standard pedal wrench works on most platforms, while some use a 15 mm open-end wrench. Many modern pedals, especially SPD-style models, use an 8 mm hex key on the inner axle. Shimano’s manual specifies an 8 mm hexagon wrench. Check yours before you start — using the wrong size strips the hex socket instantly.
Torque Specs: Right And Left
| Pedal Side | Tightening Direction | Shimano Torque Spec |
|---|---|---|
| Right (drive side) | Clockwise | 35–55 N·m |
| Left (non-drive) | Counterclockwise | 35–55 N·m |
Too loose and the pedal creaks; too tight and you may damage the bearing.
Removal Direction And Common Mistakes
To remove pedals, reverse the directions: right loosens counterclockwise; left loosens clockwise. That backward turn on the left side is the one most people forget.
Cross-threading is the most common failure, and it usually happens from reaching for a wrench before hand-starting the threads. Skipping grease is the second mistake — it makes removal brutal years later, and the pedal can seize into the crank.
One last rule: when you thread the left pedal and it refuses to turn, step back and check the side, not the angle. The threads only meet smoothly on the correct crank arm.
References & Sources
- Park Tool. “Pedal Installation and Removal.” Official repair guide covering hand-threading, grease, and chainring safety.
- Shimano. “SPD Pedals Dealer’s Manual.” Provides the 35–55 N·m torque spec and 8 mm hex installation method.
- Velo. “Technical FAQ: Pedal Thread Direction.” Confirms right-hand vs. left-hand threading basics.