How to Make a Shadow Box | Build Your Own Display Frame

A shadow box is a deep frame that displays objects with dimension, built by assembling four sides onto a backing board with optional glazing.

For the full breakdown, see our best Antique Shadow Box guide.

Making a shadow box comes down to one central idea: you’re building a shallow wooden (or paper) box that gives your keepsakes room to breathe. Whether you’re housing a military medal, a baby’s first shoes, or a collection of seashells, the process is the same — measure the opening, cut the sides, assemble the frame, and mount your items. Here’s how to do it right the first time, without wasting lumber or fighting with crooked corners.

What Materials Do You Need for a Shadow Box?

For a wood shadow box, the shopping list is short and affordable. Bob Vila’s DIY guide recommends a 6 mm plywood back, an 8-foot 1 x 4 board, wood glue, clamps, sandpaper, a drill, and a handsaw. A router is helpful if you plan to add a rebate for glass.

• 1 x 4 lumber — approximately 3/4 inch thick, enough for the box depth
• 6 mm plywood — for the backing board
• Wood glue and clamps — for a tight, lasting joint
• Handsaw or miter saw — for cutting the four sides
• Sandpaper — to smooth edges before finishing
• Drill — for hanging hardware at the end

Cutting the side pieces takes one critical adjustment: because 1 x 4 lumber is thinner than its name suggests, you subtract 1-1/2 inches from your desired frame length. That accounts for the two side pieces that overlap the top and bottom pieces at the corners.

How Do You Assemble the Box?

Start by measuring the interior opening you want — the space your display objects will actually sit in. Then cut your four sides, subtracting that 1-1/2 inches from the top and bottom pieces. Miter the corners at 45 degrees for a clean look, or square them for a simpler butt joint that’s easier for beginners.

Dry-fit the pieces before adding glue. This is the step most first-timers skip, and it’s the one that catches mismatched sides and uneven corners before they become permanent. Once the fit looks right, apply wood glue, clamp the frame, and let it dry completely.

If you’re adding glass or acrylic, cut a 5 mm rebate into the inside edge of the frame so the glazing sits flush and secure. Paint or protect the glass before final assembly — it’s far easier to finish a flat pane than one already fitted into the box.

Attach the backing board with screws or brad nails, then add your hanging hardware. A picture hanger at the back center keeps the box level on the wall.

What About Paper and Cardstock Shadow Boxes?

Not every shadow box needs power tools. For lightweight keepsakes like pressed flowers, ticket stubs, or flat memorabilia, a cardstock version works beautifully. A 12 x 12 inch cardstock method uses score lines at 3/4, 1-1/2, 2-1/4, and 3 inches on all four sides, with two additional partial score lines. Fold along those lines, and the paper itself becomes the box’s depth. Foam dots between layers add dimension for a stacked, layered effect.

Cardboard templates work too — one common design measures roughly W144 mm x H194 mm x D60 mm for thicker board, or W138 mm x H188 mm x D60 mm for thinner material. These are ideal for lightweight decorative displays rather than heavy objects. The same scoring approach works for an 11 x 11 inch square if you adjust the inner line positions to match.

If you’re using a pre-made frame, check its inside dimensions before designing your layers. Fit depends on the actual opening, not the frame’s outer size — a mismatch here is the most common reason paper shadow boxes end up crumpled.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most failed shadow boxes share the same four errors. Skipping the interior measurement tops the list — always measure the inside opening of your frame before cutting anything. Forgetting material thickness leaves you with sides that don’t meet. Cutting mismatched sides produces a box that won’t square up. And skipping the dry-fit means discovering problems only after the glue has set.

When you’ve finished, your shadow box becomes a display centerpiece. If you’re looking for a piece with history and character rather than a fresh build, our roundup of the best antique shadow boxes showcases vintage finds that bring patina and story to any wall.

One final note: saws, routers, drills, and glass cutting all carry real risk. Work in a well-ventilated shop space, wear eye protection, and handle glass with care — a clean, safe build is the only kind worth finishing.