9 Best Automotive Memory Saver | Don’t Reset Your Radio

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The all-in-one unit with its own rechargeable battery that also charges yours.

This is the heavy-duty solution for frequent battery changers. It packs a 12-volt, 4.5 amp hour sealed lead acid battery right inside the unit, so you never need a donor car, a jump pack, or a 9V battery. The direct-wired OBDII connector plugs in, and a 4 amp circuit breaker protects everything.

Owners who use it regularly note it can save anti-theft radio codes, keyless entry settings, and even tire pressure monitoring system data. The built-in charger means you just plug it into AC power between uses. The trade-off is its size and cost—at 1.9 pounds and the highest price, it is not glove-box-friendly. A few owners have flagged that the internal battery can struggle to hold a charge over long storage, so keep it topped up.

Compared to the 9V-powered Mem Retain above, this unit gives you a full 12V supply that matches what the car’s computer expects to see, which is more reliable for longer jobs or for vehicles with higher current draw. One owner summed it up: “I was able to change my battery with no problem. It didn’t have to reprogram anything.”

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Two power options in one slim unit — USB from your phone charger or a standard 9V.

This is the same brand as the first pick, but with a major upgrade: you can power it from a USB source (a power bank or phone charger) or a 9V battery. The USB adapter acts as a 5V-to-12V upconverter, delivering roughly 800mA at 12V. That means you can use a common USB power bank instead of hunting for a fresh 9V.

Owners praise it for retaining radio presets, diagnostic codes, and ECU learned procedures. A buyer who paired it with a USB power bank reported it worked perfectly for a full battery swap. The safe voltage blocking diode protects both power sources. A few experienced owners note that power banks with auto-sense charging can throttle the current, so a 9V battery or a PD USB connection is more reliable on cars with higher draw. The construction has drawn occasional “junky build” comments, but the consensus is that it does the job.

Unlike the all-in-one MS4000 above, this unit is pocket-sized and costs much less — but it lacks the internal battery, so you still need to supply your own power.

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A 10-foot cable that reaches from another car’s 12V outlet straight to your OBD port.

This is the pick for the situation where your drive battery is dead and you need to use a second vehicle as a donor. The standout feature is the 10-foot (3-meter) cable — long enough to run from the cigarette lighter of a running car two parking spots over. It also includes alligator clip-ons and a cigarette lighter plug, so you can connect to any 12V DC source: a jump starter, a spare lead-acid battery, or another car’s outlet.

Gold-plated OBD pins provide better corrosion resistance and conductivity than the zinc-plated pins found on cheaper units. A built-in 10 amp fuse protects against overloads. Owners consistently praise the cable length: “I like it because the longer leads can hook up to another car battery.” The honest downside — a few buyers received units where the OBD pin was wired to the wrong position, rendering it useless for their specific vehicle. Check the pinout immediately when it arrives.

Unlike the USB-powered JEUCLEL below, this unit requires a true 12V source — there is no upconverter here, which means it is more reliable for vehicles that need full voltage to hold memory.

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The only memory saver with a live display of voltage and current — so you know it is working.

Every other memory saver in this guide leaves you guessing: is the battery still good? Is the connection live? This unit solves that with a digital screen that cycles between voltage (red numbers) and current (blue numbers) so you can see exactly what is flowing. The 5A fuse and reverse-connection protection add serious confidence — if you hook up the clips backward, the digital tube simply stays dark and no power reaches your car.

Owners who value certainty love the feedback. A buyer called the display “an added bonus over the others where you just guess and hope.” The cable runs to a 12V source — you will need a spare battery or jump pack. A few owners were surprised to discover this upfront. The instructions are described as “poorly translated,” but the device itself is straightforward: red shows volts, blue shows amps, and the numbers change when it is hooked up.

Unlike the simpler picks above, this one doubles as a leakage detector — you can read the car’s quiescent (resting) current when everything is off.

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A rugged, no-fuss design that plugs into your cigarette lighter, not the OBD port.

Not every vehicle has an easily accessible OBD-II port, and some owners prefer the simplicity of the 12V power outlet they already know. This unit plugs into any vehicle cigarette lighter and draws from a 9-volt alkaline battery (not included) to keep the on-board computer alive. The rugged hard plastic body and durable cable are built to survive a garage environment.

Customers note it works well for saving radio presets and computer memory, especially on vehicles like the Jeep Wrangler JK. A buyer noted it saved all settings after a new battery install, including a smart Bluetooth radio. The catch is the 9V battery can get warm — there is no blocking diode visible in the specs, so the battery is not fully isolated from the vehicle’s electrical system. Also, it only works if your vehicle’s 12V outlet is powered when the ignition is off — some modern cars cut power to the lighter socket when the key is out.

Compared to the OBD-II connected Mem Retain above, this one is a different form factor entirely — choose it if you prefer the 12V outlet location, but check that your car keeps that outlet live with the key off.

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A modern take that runs from any USB power bank — no 9V batteries needed.

This unit is built around the idea that everyone has a USB power bank lying around. It uses a USB connection to supply 5V to the vehicle’s computer, and three indicator lights plus a buzzer keep you informed. The buzzer is especially useful — it sounds when the USB power is low or the connection is interrupted, so you can focus on the battery swap without constantly checking the tool.

The build uses new PVC material, which is non-toxic and designed for longevity. A one-year manufacturer warranty covers any defects. The honest picture here is more mixed than the top picks: the reliability aspect draws the most owner discussion, with some reporting it works perfectly and others finding it failed to save memory. The main pitfall is that some vehicles genuinely need a full 12V supply to hold memory, and a 5V USB source (even at 2A) cannot substitute. A buyer who used it with a CAT jump starter USB port reported it “worked great,” while another who lost all data learned that their mechanic said the car specifically needs 12V.

It is a neat concept that works for many cars, but not for all. Unlike the USB/9V Mem Retain above, this one lacks a 9V fallback if USB is not enough.

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A quality OBD-II saver with a long cord and an indicator light that shows power flow.

From a brand known for automotive tools, this unit focuses on doing one thing well: keeping power flowing from a 12V source (like a jump pack or another car’s outlet) into the OBD-II port. The long cord is a major plus — it reaches comfortably from a donor vehicle’s 12V outlet to your car’s OBD port without stretching. An indicator light shows that power is actively passing through.

Owners praise it as “simple to use” and a “time saver.” One buyer hooked it to their portable jump pack and successfully swapped the battery on a 2013 Acura RDX, preserving seat and mirror profiles, radio presets, and even a custom dash clock image. The main concerns: the coiled wiring is stiff, especially in cool weather, and the built-in fuse can blow if the positive terminal accidentally touches ground — a tricky situation in newer vehicles with fuse blocks mounted directly on the battery.

Unlike the OLLGEN unit above, it does not give you a digital readout — just a simple on/off light. But for pure reliability and build quality, it is a favorite among the nearly 200 owners who rated it highly.

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A basic, wallet-friendly option that plugs into your car’s 12V power port.

If you only change your battery once every few years and want the lowest possible cost of entry, this unit fits the bill. It plugs into the cigarette lighter socket, runs on a 9-volt alkaline battery (not included), and preserves radio presets, seat positions, and climate control settings during a swap. The maker also claims it helps prevent immobilizer lockout — a real fear on modern vehicles.

Owners who used it reported it worked well. One buyer successfully replaced their battery with “no configurations lost.” Another noted the 9V battery got warm during use but the device still functioned and saved all settings. The obvious limitation is the small number of reviews — fewer than 40 at the time of writing — so the long-term reliability picture is less clear than the top picks. A single negative review reported it did not work on their car.

It shares the same cigarette-lighter design as the All-Sun above but at a slightly lower entry point. Like the All-Sun, it depends on your 12V outlet staying live with the key off.