How Did Women Dress in the 1940s? | Wartime Utility & New Look Style

Women in the 1940s dressed in a structured wedge or hourglass silhouette with padded square shoulders, a nipped-in high waist, and knee-length A-line skirts, dictated by wartime rationing and later transformed by Dior’s 1947 New Look.

For the full breakdown, see our best 40S Vintage Dresses guide.

The 1940s produced two distinct fashion eras in a single decade. Early on, Regulation L-85 forced practical, fabric-saving designs with mannish shoulders and short hemlines. Then in 1947, Christian Dior’s Corolle collection reversed everything with rounded shoulders, cinched waists, and long, full skirts. The look that defined the decade is really two looks — and understanding both is the key to nailing a genuine 1940s outfit.

The Wartime Silhouette (1940–1946)

The early 1940s shape was the wedge silhouette: wide, padded shoulders that extended past the natural line, a tight high waist, and a narrow skirt ending at the knee. Hemlines rose because the U.S. War Production Board limited fabric usage — daytime dresses measured roughly 24–26 inches from the shoulder. The look was deliberately masculine, projecting strength and utility during wartime.

Waists were emphasized with self-fabric belts, thin leather belts, or sash bow ties. Peplum details over single-pleated skirts were common. The overall effect was boxy on top, narrow on bottom — the opposite of 1930s bias-cut flowing gowns.

The New Look Transformation (1947–1949)

Dior’s 1947 collection changed everything. The Corolle line introduced rounded shoulders, a tightly cinched waist, and a long, full bell-shaped skirt. Hemlines dropped dramatically. The silhouette became the classic hourglass — softer, more feminine, and significantly more fabric-hungry. This style dominated the late 1940s and set the template for 1950s fashion.

By 1948, women everywhere were adopting the New Look, even if they had to modify their existing wardrobes with added petticoats or longer skirt panels.

Key Garments and Daily Dress

The shirtwaist dress was the decade’s most common garment — a button-up front with 4–6 large two-inch buttons extending to the waist, a tailored collar, and often chest pockets. The Kitty Foyle dress (a dark dress with contrasting white or light collar and cuffs) was a specific staple. Woolen skirt suits with square-shouldered jackets, simple blouses, and matching skirts served as the primary uniform for working women.

High-waisted, wide-leg trousers became a socially accepted alternative to skirts, frequently paired with colorful blouses. The bolero jacket — short, with padded shoulders and waist emphasis — remained popular throughout the decade. The trench coat, a military-influenced design, was adopted for civilian wear.

Fabrics, Accessories, and Beauty

Silk and nylon were banned for civilian use — needed for parachutes and stockings. Rayon became the dominant substitute for its silky sheen and low cost, alongside acetate, viscose, cotton, and wool. Colors were conservative: brown, ivory, black, gray, navy, and charcoal for suits, with brighter primary red, yellow, and blue for accents. Pastels appeared in spring and summer.

With nylons rationed, women often wore no stockings or applied tan makeup to bare legs and drew a vertical line on the calf to mimic a seamed seam. Gloves were mandatory daytime accessories. Hats shrank to halo hats, pillbox hats with veils, snoods, and factory-practical turbans. Shoes were sturdy with rounded toes and substantial heels; platform shoes were ubiquitous. Red nail polish and red lipstick were essential finishing touches. Hairstyles included the Pompadour and Victory Rolls.

Common mistakes include assuming 1940s fashion was long and flowing — daytime hemlines were strictly knee-length until 1947. Bias-cut satins and chiffons from the 1930s were phased out entirely. The mannish, padded-shoulder aesthetic of the early 40s is the decade’s most distinctive feature and should not be overlooked.