A bathroom vanity with drawers is a weekend project achievable with a pocket hole jig, 2×2 lumber, ¾” plywood, and three pairs of 16″ drawer slides.
Building your own vanity means you get exactly the dimensions your space needs, plus real wood joinery that often outlasts store-bought particleboard. The Kreg Tool plan for a single-sink vanity with drawers provides a solid template — 32–36 inches tall, with three working drawers and plumbing clearance built into the middle one. Below is the complete method, from frame to final mount.
If you’d rather compare finished options, we’ve tested the top pre-built models in our roundup of the best bathroom vanities with drawers.
What Materials Does This Vanity Need?
The build starts with 2×2 lumber for the main frame, 1×2 stock for drawer dividers, and ¾” plywood for the top and drawer fronts. The Kreg Tool plan calls for three pairs of 16-inch slides, set 1½ inches back from the face frame. Hardware includes pocket hole screws in 2½”, 1¼”, and ¾” lengths, plus 1¼” wood screws for attaching drawer fronts. A ¼” plywood sheet forms the drawer bottoms.
Step 1: Build the Vanity Frame
Cut your 2×2 pieces per the cut list. Use a pocket hole jig to drill 1½” pockets into the ends of the side, front, and back frame members. Join them with 2½” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom frame pieces so the opening between the top and bottom frame measures exactly 23 inches — that spacing determines the drawer openings. Cut 1×2 drawer dividers next, drill ¾” pockets in each end, and install them between the top and bottom frame rails.
Step 2: Attach the Top and Side Panels
Glue up the ¾” plywood top, then sand it to a finished 20-inch width and 36-inch length. Secure side panels inside the frame with wood glue and screws. For the face frame, use 1x3s and 1x2s assembled with pocket holes and screws. The face frame attaches to the front of the side panels — this is what the drawers will slide against.
Step 3: Install the Drawer Slides
Mount three pairs of 16-inch slides on the left and right sides of each drawer opening. The critical measurement: each slide sits 1½ inches inset from the front edge of the face frame. Installing them flush instead of inset is a common mistake that will misalign the drawer fronts. Secure the slides level and square — use a short level to confirm before driving all screws.
Step 4: Assemble the Drawer Boxes
The lower drawer box uses two 16-inch pieces (front and back) and two 28½-inch pieces (sides). Drill ¾” pockets into the ends and join with 1¼” pocket hole screws. Trace the box shape onto the ¼” plywood bottom, cut it out, then glue and staple it into place. A drawer bottom that isn’t glued and stapled can collapse under weight. Repeat for the other two drawers, adjusting dimensions to fit their openings.
Step 5: Install Drawer Fronts with Proper Gaps
Cut drawer fronts from ¾” plywood. Attach each one from inside the drawer box using 1¼” wood screws, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between the front and the face frame frame. Use spacers (a piece of cardboard works) to keep the gap even. If you want a more finished look, dress the plywood fronts with molding before installing them.
Step 6: Mount the Vanity to Wall Studs
Find the wall studs behind the installation spot. Position the vanity, check level, and shim the base if the floor is uneven. Drive 2½” to 3-inch screws through the back frame and into the studs. Drywall alone cannot support the weight — stud anchoring is mandatory for safety and stability.
Productivity Table: Materials, Dimensions, and Fasteners
This table compresses the full cut list and hardware needs into one reference.
| Component | Material & Size | Fastener / Attachment |
|---|---|---|
| Frame studs | 2×2 lumber (cut per plan) | 2½” pocket hole screws |
| Drawer dividers | 1×2 lumber | ¾” pocket hole screws |
| Vanity top | ¾” plywood (sanded 20″ x 36″) | Glue and screws |
| Side panels | Plywood (cut to frame height) | Wood glue + screws |
| Face frame | 1x3s and 1x2s | Pocket holes + screws |
| Drawer slides | 3 pairs, 16″ each | 1½” inset from face frame front |
| Drawer box (lower) | Two 16″ + two 28½” pieces | 1¼” pocket hole screws |
| Drawer bottom | ¼” plywood (cut to trace) | Glue + staples |
| Drawer fronts | ¾” plywood | 1¼” wood screws (1/8″ gap) |
| Wall mounting | Back frame into studs | 2½”–3″ screws |
How Do You Handle Plumbing in the Middle Drawer?
The middle drawer sits right where the drain and supply lines run. The solution is straightforward: cut a large opening in the back of that drawer box to clear the pipes. Mark the pipe locations after the vanity is mounted, then use a jigsaw to remove the interference area. The drawer front stays intact, so nobody sees the cutout. Failing to plan for this clearance is the single most common rework people face after building a three-drawer vanity.
Common Mistakes That Ruin a Vanity Build
Several errors show up repeatedly in DIY builds. Pre-drill all screw and nail holes with a 3mm to 5mm bit to prevent wood splitting — a split frame member is hard to fix after assembly. Using only brad nails for cabinet boxes produces weak joints; always back them up with glue and screws. Over-nailing the vanity top spoils the surface finish. Finally, check the floor for level before driving the wall screws — an unlevel vanity will leave gaps between the countertop and the wall that are nearly impossible to hide later.
Free vs. Paid Plans
The Kreg Tool guide and Ana White’s plans are available free online. The Kreg plan is the most detailed for this specific three-drawer single-sink layout. Paid PDF plans from the Wood Shop Diaries store ($14.99) and Etsy listings include printable cut lists and dimension diagrams that some builders prefer for shop ease. Both options produce the same quality result.
Finish and Safety Notes
Apply three coats of varnish, sanding lightly with 240-grit between coats, to protect against bathroom moisture. Use solid hardwood, marine plywood, or sealed MDF for all parts exposed to humidity — standard plywood will warp over time. Stir varnish thoroughly before each coat and allow full drying time to avoid a tacky surface.
Comparison: Three-Drawer vs. Two-Drawer Layouts
This table contrasts the two common configurations so you can choose the right design for your plumbing situation.
| Feature | Three-Drawer (Kreg Plan) | Two-Drawer + Doors |
|---|---|---|
| Drawer depth | Full depth on all three | Doors hide shelves or one deep drawer |
| Plumbing access | Middle drawer needs cutout | No drawer interference behind doors |
| Storage style | All-drawer, easy access | Mixed doors + one drawer |
| Best for | Plumbing centered below sink | Offset plumbing or tight spaces |
Final Build Checklist
Before you mount the countertop and sink, run through this completion list. Confirm all drawer slides are at the same 1½-inch inset. Verify each drawer opens and closes smoothly without binding. Check that the middle drawer clears the supply lines and drain. Shake the vanity — it should not move at all. Screw through the back frame into every wall stud you found. Once the plumbing passes, the build is done.
FAQs
Can I use regular pine for a bathroom vanity?
Regular pine works if you seal it well with three coats of varnish or polyurethane. But it’s prone to swelling in damp bathrooms. Marine plywood or sealed MDF holds up better over time and resists warping from steam and splashes.
What size drawer slides do I need?
The standard 16-inch slides used in the Kreg plan fit most vanity depths. Measure the depth of your drawer box from front to back — the slide should match that measurement. Longer slides like 18- or 20-inch ones work if your vanity is deeper than 16 inches.
How long does it take to build a vanity from scratch?
A weekend is realistic for an experienced DIYer — roughly two days if you have the materials cut and a pocket hole jig ready. First-time builders should plan for three to four days to accommodate mistakes, dry-fit checks, and finish drying time between varnish coats.
Do I need a table saw for the plywood cuts?
A table saw makes straight cuts on plywood easier, but a circular saw with a straightedge guide works fine. Most home centers also cut plywood sheets to your dimensions for free if you provide a cut list, saving you the need for large saws in a small shop.
Can I build this without pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the fastest method for this design, but you can substitute dado joints or dowel joinery. Those alternatives require more precise layout and clamping time. Pocket holes add strength with less measuring, which is why most DIY plans recommend them.
References & Sources
- Kreg Tool. “DIY Single Sink Vanity with Drawers” Primary plan with cut list, step-by-step assembly, and materials list.
- Wood Shop Diaries. “DIY Bathroom Vanity with Fluted Doors and Drawers” Alternate leg design and drawer slide installation guidance.
- Bunnings Australia. “D.I.Y. Bathroom Vanity” Finishing advice, sanding grits, and varnish application steps.
