Choose 100% cotton Ankara (African wax print) fabric that feels soft, not papery, with identical color intensity on the front and back, and opt for small-scale prints on garments with multiple seams.
Walking into a fabric shop stocked with vibrant African prints is exciting — and overwhelming. One bolt feels stiff, another drapes like silk. Some patterns are huge, others tiny. The difference between a garment that looks polished and one that looks costumey often comes down to fabric quality, print scale, and color coordination. Here’s how to pick the right African print fabric for your next sewing project, with no fluff.
What Makes African Print Fabric Authentic?
Authentic African wax print fabric, commonly called Ankara, is 100% cotton made using wax block printing. This technique forces deep dye penetration so the color is intense on both sides of the fabric. If the front is vibrant but the back is pale or dull, it’s not genuine Ankara. Avoid polyester blends or mixed fibers — they bleed when washed, feel papery, and lack the durability that makes true Ankara a decades-lasting material.
Material Check: Cotton First, Everything Else Last
The fabric composition is non-negotiable. Real African wax print is 100% cotton. Press the fabric between your fingers — quality cotton feels soft and pliable. If it feels stiff or has a papery texture, that signals synthetic content or poor wax quality. Cheap, mass-produced options often use polyester blends that bleed onto other fabrics and look faded after a few washes. Always check the selvedge for composition info before buying.
How to Test Print Quality Before Buying
Flip the fabric over. On genuine Ankara, both sides display the same color intensity. If the reverse side is faded, blurred, or missing the pattern entirely, the print was applied only to the surface — that’s a screen print, not a wax block print. Screen prints wear unevenly and crack over time. The Seamwork fabric guide on Ankara confirms this front-and-back test as the fastest way to spot quality.
Print Scale and Pattern Matching: The Seam Rule
Large-scale prints — with motifs bigger than your hand — are striking on dashikis or floor-length gowns, but they create headaches on garments with many seams. Princess seams, darts, and waist seams need precise pattern matching. Each large motif you cut in half looks like a mistake. Small-to-medium scale prints make alignment easier and waste less fabric. If you love a big print, reserve it for simple silhouettes with few seam lines.
| Print Scale | Best For | Avoid For |
|---|---|---|
| Small (motifs under 2″) | Dresses, shirts, tops with darts or princess seams | Minimalist looks where pattern gets lost |
| Medium (2″–4″) | Pencil skirts, A-line dresses, trousers | Tight curves (lose shape on seams less than 3″) |
| Large (4″+ motifs) | Straight gowns, wide-leg pants, capes, kaftans | Anything with set-in sleeves, panels, or darts |
Coordinating Solids: Pick the Sub-Dominant Color
A common mistake is pairing African print with the dominant color as a solid — the print’s main hue. That often produces a clash. Instead, choose a solid in the less dominant color from the print. If the fabric has a sea of yellow with blue accent circles, the solid goes with the blue, not the yellow. This approach creates visual balance. The solid should also match the fabric weight: if your print is lightweight cotton Ankara, pair it with a cotton solid, not a heavy denim or a silky charmeuse.
How Much Fabric Do You Really Need?
African print fabric is traditionally sold in 6-yard pieces (about 5.5 meters). That’s a full unit — you buy the whole piece or ask for cuts. Experienced sewists at reflectek design recommend 2 yards as the most versatile quantity for coordinating prints. Two yards covers a simple top, a mini skirt, or accent details on a dress. For a long gown with sleeves, expect to need 4–6 yards depending on your size and the pattern layout.
Pre-Wash: The Step Beginners Skip
New Ankara has a protective wax coating that makes it stiff. Sewing without pre-washing leaves the garment feeling like cardboard, and the first wash may shrink it unevenly. Pre-wash in cold water with a splash of fabric softener — test a swatch first, because some dark prints bleed. A teaspoon of salt in the wash water helps set the dye. After washing, line-dry and press. The fabric softens dramatically.
Needles and Settings for Sewing Ankara
Use a standard universal needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) on a standard home machine. A J presser foot works well. Set stitch length to 2.5mm for strength on seams, or 3–3.5mm for a cleaner look on decorative stitching — test both on a scrap swatch. Because cotton frays easily, overlock all seams or use a zigzag stitch. Pinking shears also work for quick finishing. Remove manufacturer labels by placing a paper towel over the label, pressing with a steam iron for 3–5 seconds, then lifting: the adhesive releases and the label peels off.
Respecting the Fabric’s Cultural Context
African wax prints carry meaning. Specific patterns symbolize proverbs, events, or social status in West African communities. Before buying a large volume for a project, take a moment to understand the pattern’s origin and typical use. The Craft Industry Alliance’s guide on buying and wearing African wax prints explores this responsibility — it’s worth reading. Informed choices prevent unintentional appropriation and honor the tradition these fabrics represent.
| Fabric Type | Key Trait | Best Project |
|---|---|---|
| Ankara (Wax Print) | 100% cotton, identical color both sides | Most garments — dresses, shirts, skirts |
| Kente | Vibrant geometric patterns, strips | Statement pieces, accessories, stoles |
| Bazin | Shiny, stiff, formal | Special occasion gowns, boubous |
| Adire | Indigo-dyed, hand-painted or stamped | Casual wear, home decor |
The Final Check Before You Cut
Before cutting into any new African print fabric, run this five-point checklist: (1) Is it 100% cotton with a soft hand? (2) Are both sides equally colored? (3) Will my pattern fit the print scale without breaking motifs? (4) Did I pre-wash in cold water? (5) Do I have a matching solid in the sub-dominant color? Answering yes to all five means your fabric is ready. The rest is skill — and the table below breaks down the most common fabric types to help you match the right one to your project.
FAQs
What is the difference between Ankara and Kente fabric?
Ankara is 100% cotton created through wax block printing, giving it identical color on both sides — it’s the standard for daily wear garments. Kente is woven in narrow strips with geometric patterns, traditionally associated with Ashanti royalty. Kente is stiffer and used for statement pieces rather than everyday sewing.
Can I machine wash African print fabric?
Hand washing is preferred, but a machine on cold with a gentle cycle is acceptable. Turn the garment inside out, use mild detergent, and never wring it. Line drying prevents fading and shrinking. Low-quality blends may still bleed despite these precautions.
Why does my African print fabric bleed color when I wash it?
Bleeding usually indicates poor dye quality or synthetic fiber content. Genuine wax-printed Ankara resists bleeding after the first cold wash with salt. If bleeding continues, the fabric likely contains polyester or was printed with surface dyes rather than deep wax penetration — that’s the sign to avoid that vendor in the future.
What is the technical term for African wax print fabric?
The industry term for the most common type is African wax print or Ankara. The French call it tissu wax. The production method is wax block printing, where melted resin is applied to cotton before dyeing. This technique creates the signature crackled resist effect and deep color saturation on both sides.
References & Sources
- Seamwork. “Guide to Sewing Ankara Fabric.” Comprehensive guide covering fabric selection, pre-wash, and sewing techniques.