Do not lay artificial turf directly over existing grass; remove the live turf and roots first for a smooth, stable base that lasts.
Installing astro turf over grass starts with one honest truth: the grass has to go. A living lawn decomposes underneath synthetic turf, creating bumps, uneven spots, and a surface that shifts underfoot. Here’s the full sequence, from stripping the lawn to the final brush.
Why You Can’t Just Lay Turf On Top Of Grass
The lawn underneath needs to be smooth and solid; live grass and roots rot, causing the turf to sink or come unstuck in wet weather. Organic material left in place decomposes and attracts weeds, ruining the install within a season.
The fix is simple: remove it all—grass, roots, topsoil, mulch, and any pine needles. The deeper you go, the more room you have for a proper sub-base.
The Complete Installation Sequence
Once the grass is gone, the rest is a methodical build. Follow this order and the turf will stay flat, drain properly, and look right from every angle.
Excavate To The Right Depth
How deep you dig depends on your turf system. Sources vary from 1½ inches to 4 inches, so check the exact recommendation for the product you bought. When in doubt, cut deeper—shallower bases cause the most rework later.
Build A Sloped, Compacted Base
A stable base needs two things: drainage and compaction. Grade the soil with a slight slope away from your house—2% is the standard—so water runs off instead of pooling under the turf. Identify high and low spots before you compact, and fix them while the ground is still open.
Then lay the aggregate. Compact everything with a plate compactor—several guides suggest watering lightly first to help the soil settle.
Add Weed Barrier And Lay The Turf
Roll out weed barrier fabric across the full area with 4–6 inch overlaps, if your system calls for it. Then unroll the astro turf and let it relax in the sun. Sources range from 30 minutes to a full half-day; the longer the better, because warm turf lies flatter and cuts more cleanly.
Arrange every roll so the blades face the same direction. If you mix blade direction between rows, you get a visible two-tone lawn that looks wrong from every angle.
Cut, Seam, And Secure
Rough-cut the turf with a razor knife, then join the pieces with seaming tape and adhesive. Use the tighter pattern on high-traffic areas.
Finally, brush the fibers with a power broom to lift them. If your system specifies infill—kiln-dried sand is common—apply it according to the product’s instructions. Not all turf needs infill, so follow the model-specific guide for yours.
Common Mistakes And How To Avoid Them
The difference between a great install and one that fails within months almost always comes down to a few repeated errors:
- Leaving grass or roots in place. It decomposes, settles, and wrecks the surface. Remove every bit of organic matter.
- Skipping compaction. An un-compacted base settles unevenly, creating bumps and puddles.
- Ignoring drainage slope. Water must run away from buildings, not toward them.
- Mixing blade direction. Every roll must face the same way or the lawn looks patched.
- Rushing seams. Inadequate tape and spacing causes visible joins and lifted edges.
- Skipping the relax step. Turf cut before it’s fully acclimated wrinkles and curls.
For a proper product choice that matches your yard’s condition, our tested roundup of the best astro turf grass options covers the top systems and their installation requirements side by side.
References & Sources
- This Old House. “How to Install Artificial Grass.” Covers removing 3–4 inches of soil, base depth, and the full install order.
- Lowe’s. “How to Install Artificial Grass.” Details compaction, slope requirements, and seam/nail spacing.
- The Home Depot. Artificial Turf Installation Guide. Specifies 2-1/2 inch excavation and 40–50mm cutting depth safety guidance.
