How to Measure for 94-Inch Curtains?

To measure for 94-inch curtains, measure the drop from the top of your rod or track down to your desired endpoint, and base width on the rod, not the window glass.

For the full breakdown, see our best 94 Inch Curtains guide.

When a panel is labeled 94 inches, that number refers to the curtain’s finished length, not its width. The measurement starts at the hanging point dictated by the header style—the top of the pole for eyelet and tab-top panels, the track or hook eye for pencil pleat—and runs down to where you want the fabric to end. Measure from that hanging point to the windowsill, the floor, or anywhere in between, and you’ll know whether a 94-inch panel fits your window.

What Does a 94-Inch Curtain Panel Actually Mean?

In retail sizing, 94 inches is the length of the panel, and it’s a less-common option between the standard 84-inch and 96-inch ready-made lengths. Most stores stock 84, 96, and 108-inch panels with a standard width of 54 inches, so a 94-inch option is often a seller-specific size worth checking against their own size chart. If your measured drop lands near 94 inches, this panel length can work well; if your rod sits high, the panel may fall short of the floor, and if the rod is mounted lower, the fabric may puddle.

How To Measure Length and Width Correctly

Grab a metal tape measure for accuracy, and work from the rod or track, not the window frame. Measure the drop from the exact hanging point to the endpoint you want: the windowsill, the apron below it, the floor, or a puddle of fabric for a formal look. For eyelet curtains, start at the top of the pole; for pencil pleat, start at the top of the track or the hook eye; for tab top, start at the top of the pole. If a radiator sits below the window, hang the curtains about 1.5 inches above it so heat can escape into the room.

For width, measure the full pole or track end-to-end, excluding the decorative finials. If the rod isn’t installed yet, measure the window width and add extension on each side—commonly 4–6 inches per side, or up to 8–10 inches for a more generous stack. This lets the curtains hang off the glass when open, maximizing light and giving the window a fuller look.

Then factor in fullness. For a standard, full look, the finished curtain should span about 1.5 to 2 times the rod width. Eyelet and heavily gathered styles want closer to 2 times, while pleated or very full decorative treatments can run 2.5 to 3 times. Since curtains often sell as pairs, divide the total target width by two to estimate the per-panel width—for instance, a 90-inch total target means each panel should be at least 45 inches wide.

Common Mistakes To Avoid When Measuring

The most frequent pitfalls are easy to sidestep once you know them:

• Measuring the window glass instead of the rod or track width.
• Forgetting to exclude finials from the width measurement.
• Measuring from the window frame instead of the rod or hanging point.
• Ignoring the header style, which changes where the effective drop starts.
• Underestimating fullness, leaving the curtains looking thin and stretched.

Get the length from the hanging point, the width from the rod, and the fullness from your desired style, and you’ll have a set of numbers that translate directly to the right panels.

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