How to Replace Webbing on Lawn Chairs | Restore in an Afternoon

Replacing webbing on lawn chairs is a DIY repair that takes about an hour once you identify the chair’s fastener type—screws or clips.

Sun-rotted strips sag and crack, but bringing an aluminum webbed chair back to life is one of the simpler outdoor repairs. The process comes down to five steps—remove the old strips, identify the fasteners, cut new webbing, attach it, and tension it correctly. The trick is knowing which fastener system your chair uses before you buy anything.

What You Need Before You Start

Sailrite’s rewebbing guide calls for 2-inch heavy-duty polypropylene webbing, the standard width for most aluminum folding chairs. Grab a drill or screwdriver, a tape measure, scissors or a knife, and pliers. You’ll also want replacement screws if the originals are stripped.

Identify the Fastener: Screws, Clips, or Rivets

Ace Hardware’s repair guide says the first move is to check whether your chair uses screws or clips—buying the wrong type wastes a trip to the store.

• Screws: The most common type. Remove each with a drill or screwdriver, and keep them in a small cup.
• Clips: These snap into stamped holes in the frame. Pry the clip open with pliers or a flathead, then slide the old webbing free.
• Rivets: Funboy’s rewebbing guide says if you see pop rivets, drill them out and replace them with screws and washers—so the next rewebbing job is simpler.

Once fasteners are off, pull the old webbing strip free and set it aside—it becomes your measuring template.

Cut the New Webbing Using the Old Strip as a Template

Lay the old strip flat on the new roll and cut a piece slightly longer. A common mistake is measuring only the visible seat portion and coming up short. Cut all strips at once if the chair uses a parallel layout; if it uses a woven lattice, cut the same number you removed and keep them in order. Before attaching, verify the new webbing width matches the original—a narrower or wider strip throws off the pattern and reduces support.

Attach the New Webbing and Tension It Correctly

Start at the back of the chair and work forward. Ace Hardware’s guide recommends attaching the first side from the back, folding the webbing over the frame bar, and driving the screw or clip through the folded portion—the fold creates a strong double layer that resists pulling through. Draw each strip across to the opposite side and secure it the same way, then weave the side pieces through if the pattern calls for it.

Pull the webbing firm—but no tighter. Funboy’s guide warns that overtightening warps the aluminum frame, permanently distorting how the chair sits and folds. Aim for a taut, supportive surface when you press on it, not a drum-tight one that bends the rails. When finished, the chair should hold your weight without sagging, the frame should stay straight, and the strips should sit flat against every bar. Trim excess webbing flush with the frame edge after the final attachment.

Pattern and Support: Match What You Removed

Some chairs run straight parallel strips; others weave a lattice where each strip passes over and under its neighbors. Match the original exactly—the over-under sequence isn’t decorative; it spreads weight evenly and gives the seat its stiffness. Check the finished frame for wobble or bent rails before use.

All of this assumes the frame itself is sound. If the aluminum is cracked or heavily corroded, a rewebbing job won’t save it—look at a new chair. If the frame is in good shape and you’re shopping for fresh seating, our roundup of the best aluminum webbed lawn chairs is a good starting point.