Using a button maker takes about a minute per button once you load the shell, artwork, and mylar correctly.
Whether you’re cranking out campaign pins or branding tote bags, the process is surprisingly mechanical: cut your design, stack the layers in the right dies, and pull the handle twice. The whole trick is knowing which piece faces which way. Here’s the exact sequence that works on manual 1-inch, 1.75-inch, and 2.5-inch presses.
What Parts Do You Need Before You Start?
Every button starts with four physical pieces plus your artwork. The shell is the metal cup that becomes the button’s face — it sits with its sharp edge pointing down. The mylar is the clear plastic disc that protects the image. The paper back fills the recess, and the pin back is the metal piece with the actual pin clasp that holds the finished button on a shirt or bag.
Getting the right size matters more than anything else. Penn State’s tutorial separates systems into 58 mm (2.25-inch) for large buttons and 32 mm for small ones. A 1-inch shell will not crimp in a 1.75-inch die — the sizes are not interchangeable between machine models.
How to Load the Die and Crimp Your First Button
UF Libraries’ instruction page breaks the workflow into a clean sequence. Follow it in order and you’ll skip the most common beginner failures.
Step 1: Cut your artwork. Use the cutter that came with the press to punch a perfectly round disc — this gets you a design that is slightly smaller than the button face. Scissors leave rough edges that wrinkle under the mylar. Cut one piece at a time for crisp edges.
Step 2: Load the shell side. Place the shell in the front (pickup) die with the sharp edge down. Drop your artwork face up on top of the shell, then add the clear mylar cover over the image.
Step 3: Load the back side. Put the pin back in the back (crimp) die with its sharp edge pointing up. Add the paper back on top of the pin mechanism.
Step 4: Press the front. Rotate the front die under the press and pull the handle all the way down once. You’ll feel the shell fold over the artwork edges.
Step 5: Press the back. Rotate the back die under the press and pull the handle down again to seat the pin back.
Step 6: Remove the finished button. It should pop free with a light tug — that’s your cue the crimp took.
What Mistakes Ruin a Button?
Most failures trace back to one of four slip-ups, according to the makerspace guides. The biggest is an oversized design — if the paper disc touches the die walls, it bunches into wrinkles around the edge. Keep the art slightly smaller than the shell’s inner diameter.
Layer orientation trips up almost everyone on the first try. The image goes face up under the mylar on the shell side, and the pin back goes in the opposite die with its sharp edge up. Switching them produces a button with the design on the wrong side or a pin that won’t close. Force is the last variable: pull firmly but not forcefully. A steady, full squeeze gives a clean crimp; slamming the handle risks bending the die.
| Button Size | Common Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1-inch (25 mm) | Small badges, pins | Requires its own dies and cutter |
| 1.75-inch (44 mm) | Name tags, promo buttons | Most common all-purpose size |
| 2.5-inch (63 mm) | Large posters, mirror hangers | Bigger dies, firmer pull needed |
Once you’ve got the rhythm down, the only real decision left is which machine to buy. Our tested picks for the best button makers compare the top manual presses by build quality and die options if you’re ready to buy one.
Safety and Compatibility Basics
These instructions apply to manual button presses in makerspaces and libraries. The only compatibility concern is matching the shell, back, mylar, and die size to your specific machine. UC Berkeley’s guide, for instance, links a manual for its 1-inch press dated June 2019, while
References & Sources
- Penn State Maker Commons. “Button Maker Tutorial.” Details button size checks and step-by-step press operation.
FAQs
Do I need a special cutter for button-making paper?
Yes — use the circular cutter that came with your machine to punch artwork, rather than scissors. This produces edges that fold cleanly under the mylar, preventing wrinkles and uneven crimps on the finished button face.
Why does my finished button have a wrinkled design?
The most common cause is artwork that’s too large for the shell, causing the paper to bunch when the die folds over it. Cut the design slightly smaller than the shell’s inner diameter, and ensure the image is face up under the mylar.
Are 1-inch shells compatible with a 2.5-inch button maker?
No. Shells, backs, mylar covers, and dies are size-specific and cannot be mixed between machine models. Always match the consumables to the exact button size your press is designed for.