A cabinet hardware jig positions drill guides so every knob and pull hole lands in the same spot across all your doors and drawers.
Installing new hardware across a full kitchen can leave a trail of uneven holes when you work by eye alone. A jig solves that by giving each hole a fixed reference point, which keeps the spacing identical from one cabinet face to the next. The exact procedure depends on your jig model, but the core idea stays the same: set the offset, square the tool to the edge, lock it down, and drill through the guide bushing with the correct bit size.
Below is the step-by-step method for the two most common jig styles, plus the mistakes that quietly ruin consistent layouts. If you’re still comparing tools before buying, our tested roundup of the best cabinet hardware jigs breaks down which models handle what.
Marking a Centerline First
Every jig works from a reference line, so establishing that line is step one. Use a square to draw a line down the exact center of the drawer front or door where the hardware will sit. A misdrawn centerline transfers its error to every hole you drill from it.
Once the centerline is on the workpiece, the standard procedure from Kreg’s KHI-PULL manual is straightforward:
- Position the jig with its edge guide pressed against the cabinet edge.
- Line up the centerline on your workpiece with the centerline window on the jig.
- Clamp the jig firmly in place so it cannot shift.
- Insert a 3/16 in. (4.5 mm) drill bit into the drill guide bushing.
- Drill the hole straight through the guide.
That single center mark works for knobs on a drawer. For pulls, the jig also spaces the two screw holes evenly around that same centerline.
Using a Pro-Style Jig With Adjustable Bars
Larger jigs like the KHI-XLPULL add adjustable bars and stops for more flexibility with different hardware lengths and drawer heights. The assembly starts by putting the bars together so the zero marks on each piece line up exactly.
Slide the adjustable drill guides onto the cross bar, then set them to the spacing your hardware requires. The procedure differs by what you’re installing:
- For a centered knob on a drawer: set the stop to half the drawer’s height, align the notch on that stop with your center mark, then drill through the center bushing.
- For handles or pulls: place the spacing pins into the bushings, set the hardware over the pins to confirm the fit, and tighten the thumb screws hand-tight only.
Always double-check that both sides measure equal before drilling, especially when mounting pulls that sit below the drawer top.
Positioning the Jig for Common Hardware
| Hardware Type | Layout Steps | Drilling Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Knob on a drawer | Mark drawer center; set stop to half the height if centering | Align stop notch with center mark; drill the center bushing |
| Pull or handle | Align the jig to the drawer centerline | Measure hardware width; confirm both sides equal before drilling |
| Door-mounted knob or pull | Set offset from the door edge using the edge guide | Use the spec sheet included with the jig for exact offsets |
| Long T-bar pull | Use the adjustable drill guides set to bar length | Verify both holes sit level before drilling |
When measuring hardware to set positions, place the spacing pins in the bushings, then set the actual handle over those pins. That lets you confirm the hole spacing matches the pull’s screw centers before any drilling happens.
Avoiding Mistakes That Ruin Your Layout
The most common errors come down to rushing the setup or fighting the tool. Here are the ones that show up most often in workshops:
- Tightening thumb screws with pliers. The docs specify hand-tight only. Pliers over-stress the threads and can warp the adjustment.
- Adjusting factory-set screws. Screws other than the listed thumb screws are calibrated at the factory. Turning them throws off the jig’s accuracy permanently.
- Using a dull bit. A sharp bit cuts cleanly; a dull one wanders and tears the wood. Clear chips while drilling by withdrawing the bit while it still spins.
- Skipping the alignment check. A misread centerline or stop setting repeats that same error on every single hole you drill.
Use the specified drill bit size for your jig. The guides are machined to match certain bit diameters, and the Kreg documentation lists 3/16 in. for the standard pull jig. Swapping in another size affects fit and accuracy, so stick with what the manual calls for.
If you’re still deciding between jig models for your shop, our hands-on comparison of the best cabinet hardware jigs covers the trade-offs between budget and pro models.
References & Sources
- Kreg Tool. “KHI-PULL Cabinet Hardware Jig Manual.” Official instructions for centerline marking, drill guide use, and bit sizing.
- Kreg Tool. “KHI-PULL Knowledge Deck.” Global manual covering edge guide positioning and hardware layout.
- True Position Tools. “Cabinet Hardware Jig Instructions.” Industry-standard guidance on marking centers, setting stops, and drilling guide bushings.
