200 grit sandpaper is a fine abrasive used for final smoothing, between-coat sanding, and light surface prep on wood, paint, and plastics.
When a project stops feeling rough but still isn’t ready for finish, 200 grit is the sandpaper that bridges the gap. It sits in the “very fine” range alongside 150-, 180-, and 220-grit papers, a class Family Handyman credits with producing ultra-smooth wood surfaces and scuff-sanding finishes before another coat. It won’t reshape a board or strip paint, and that’s exactly the point. This grit refines, smooths, and prepares surfaces that already look decent — the final passes before stain, clear coat, or paint go on.
What Is 200 Grit Sandpaper For Woodworking?
For wood, 200 grit is the finishing workhorse. It smooths bare wood before stain or clear finishes, refines scratch marks left by coarser grits, and lightly scuffs between coats of paint, lacquer, or polyurethane to improve adhesion.
The typical progression looks like this:
- Remove material: 60–100 grit for shaping and stock removal
- Refine scratches: 120–150 grit to smooth the surface
- Final prep: 200–220 grit for the last pass before finish
Skipping the intermediate grits after coarse sanding is a common mistake — it leaves visible scratch patterns that show up clearly once finish is applied. This Old House notes that 220 grit and higher suits an ultra-smooth hardwood surface, which puts 200 grit in the same finishing zone.
Can You Use 200 Grit Between Coats of Paint or Poly?
Yes, and it’s one of the best uses for this grit. A light pass with 200 grit between coats dulls the surface just enough for the next coat to bond firmly, without cutting through the finish layer.
The key word is light. Over-sanding between coats can cut through the finish entirely — instead of dulling the surface, you’ll expose bare material underneath and have to start over. The right touch leaves the surface feeling like fine frosted glass, not scratched. For coated surfaces, This Old House recommends testing in an inconspicuous area first to avoid cutting through the finish.
Other Materials and Common Mistakes with 200 Grit
Beyond wood, 200 grit works for gentle prep on painted surfaces, plastics, and some metal finishing tasks where a softer touch is needed. On plastics, use light pressure to avoid haze or scratching — the same grit that smooths oak can mar a soft polymer surface.
Three errors account for most disappointing results with fine grits:
- Using it for heavy work: deep gouges, thick paint, or serious stock removal need 60–100 grit. Fine paper just clogs and wastes time.
- Starting too fine: rough wood needs coarse grit first; jumping to 200 grit polishes the high spots while leaving the low spots untouched.
- Over-sanding between coats: a few light passes is the goal, not a full sanding session.
RS Online lists 220 grit as suitable for final sanding and sanding between coats, confirming the use-case for 200 grit as a near-equivalent finishing abrasive.
Is 200 Grit the Right Choice for Your Project?
Match the grit to the material and the goal. 200 grit is right for final prep before finish, between-coat scuffing, and feathering minor imperfections. It’s wrong for heavy material removal or stripping finishes — coarser grits are faster for those jobs.
For most woodworking projects, the progression of 120 → 150 → 200 grit produces a surface ready for stain or clear coat. If a project calls for an ultra-smooth hardwood surface, stepping up to 220 grit afterward gives that extra polish This Old House describes for final sanding before finishes.
Once you’ve confirmed 200 grit fits your task, you’ll want sheets that actually perform — our roundup of top-rated 200 grit sandpaper options compares the best picks for wood, metal, and finishing work. For more on grit selection, Family Handyman’s sandpaper grit chart breaks down the full range of coarseness levels and their best uses.
One final note: very fine grits like 200 are generally for dry sanding or light finishing. For higher-grit polishing, some products support wet sanding, but 200 grit is not specifically a wet-sanding product.
FAQs
Is 200 grit sandpaper considered fine or medium?
200 grit falls in the “very fine” category, alongside 150, 180, and 220 grit papers. These abrasives produce smooth surfaces and are best for finishing work rather than material removal. The scale runs from coarse (40–60 grit) through medium (80–120 grit) to fine and very fine (150 grit and above).
Can I use 200 grit sandpaper on metal?
Yes, for light finishing tasks. 200 grit can smooth burrs, refine scratches, and prep metal surfaces for paint or clear coat. For heavier metal removal, start with coarser grits and work your way up. The same grit behaves differently on metal than on wood, so use lighter pressure and expect slower cutting.
Should I sand with or against the grain?
Always sand with the grain on bare wood to avoid visible cross-grain scratches. For between-coat sanding on already-finished surfaces, the orientation matters less since the goal is just dulling the surface. Use a sanding block for flat surfaces to keep pressure even and avoid waves.
References & Sources
- Family Handyman. “Sandpaper Grit Chart.” Classifies 150–220 grit as very fine and used for ultra-smooth surfaces and between-coat scuffing.
- This Old House. “How To Choose and Use Sandpaper.” Covers final sanding before finishes, polishing painted surfaces, and smoothing plastics.
- RS Online. “Sandpaper Grit Guide.” Lists 220 grit as very fine, used for final sanding and sanding between coats.