2016 F-150 Leveling Kit Install | Spacer Lift In 8 Steps

Installing a 2.5-inch leveling kit on a 2016 Ford F-150 takes roughly two hours of shop time plus a mandatory front-end alignment.

For the full breakdown, see our best 2016 F150 Leveling Kit guide.

The procedure—removing the strut assembly, compressing the spring, rotating the upper mount, installing the spacer, and reassembling—can be done with common tools.

Tools And Parts You’ll Need

A basic 2.5-inch aluminum spacer kit costs $40 to $80, while branded kits from Rough Country or Terraflex run $150 to $300. Regardless of kit, the tool list stays the same: floor jack, four jack stands, impact wrench, torque wrench, coil spring compressor (rentable at auto parts stores), brass drift, hammer, propane torch, 8mm Allen wrench, and socket set (10mm, 17mm, 18mm, 27mm). Pick up anti-seize compound and fresh Nylock nuts for spacer bolts.

How Do You Install The Spacer?

The core sequence is eight steps. Work on a level surface with the parking brake set and rear wheels chocked.

1. Lift and strip the front end. Jack up the frame, set jack stands under the lower control arms, and remove the front wheels. Loosen the 27mm lower control arm nuts and sway bar end link nut while the suspension still has weight.
2. Disconnect ancillaries. Unbolt the brake line support bracket (10mm), disconnect the ABS sensor wiring clip, and remove the vacuum line clip for the automatic locking hubs. Set hardware aside.
3. Remove the strut. Under the hood, remove three 18mm nuts holding the strut top to the frame. Remove two nuts on the lower knuckle side and drop the strut assembly out.
4. Compress the spring. Mount the strut in a vise and use a coil spring compressor to take pressure off the upper mount. Mark the top as a reference—you will rotate the mount 180°.
5. Drive out the bottom studs. Heat metal around the two bottom mounting studs with a torch to expand it (point flame away from rubber bushing). Hammer studs out using a brass drift and spare nut to protect threads.
6. Install the spacer. Place the aluminum puck on top of the strut with the smooth side facing the spring. Secure with supplied bolts and new Nylock nuts. Torque top bolts to 35 ft-lbs.
7. Reassemble and reinstall. Rotate the upper mount 180° so the reference mark is now at bottom. Drop assembly back in, start lower knuckle bolts, torque to 80 ft-lbs. Reattach sway bar end link, tie rod, and lower control arm.
8. Finishing torque and alignment. With truck on ground, tighten lower control arm 27mm nuts to 150 ft-lbs and lug nuts to 150 ft-lbs. Drive directly to an alignment shop—changed ride height alters steering geometry and will cause uneven tire wear without professional adjustment.

Mistakes That Cost Time And Money

Three errors recur in forum threads and install videos. First, failing to rotate the upper strut mount 180° prevents the spacer from sitting flush. Second, cross-threading spacer bolts by using impact-gun speed; start them by hand. Third and most expensive: skipping the alignment—even 50 miles without one will scrub outer tire edges and cause steering pull. The alignment costs $80 to $120 and is not optional.